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Summer 2012

Rock Climbing

The Climbing Site

Alpe d’Huez features 150 climbing routes on the cliffs of Lac Besson (2200 metres), exposed west.

These cliffs, which were first known for their ice falls form a great playground for beginning rock climbers as well as experts.
Composed of roc faces 30 metres to 120 metres high, the 150 routes of 1 to 4 lengths are located in 7 sections. The installed inox facilities offer optimal safety.

Alain Roche and Claude Vigier, two high mountain guides are responsible for creating the routes, putting Alpe d’Huez on the map as a referenced climbing area.


Technical information

Climbing area

Regarding its environnement (altitude, location and weather conditions), this site is an adventurous place and all climbers must use appropriate equipements.

Cliff equipments

Modern equipment is composed of inox bolts with a diameter of 10 and 12 centimeters and sealed pitons, anchors on 2 points and chains generally.
This cliff has been used for decades, therefore some outdated equipement may be found on the site (be careful with old pitons).
In mountain: for your safety use a helmet and stay in the line of the route during the climbing.

Climb grading

All the routes descend on top-rop or on rappel. Climb gradings are mentioned for reference only and remain to confirm.

Ropes and quickdraws

For pitch routes, a 70 metres rope is enough, however a 80 metres rope can be necessary on La Menace. 12 quickdraws are enough except for the left section of La Menace, on which you might need 15 quickdraws. For routes of more than 1 pitch, a 100 metres rope is necessary for abseiling. Names of the sections are written on the base of the cliff, as well as numbers (from left to right).


Sections

Sections are named after the ice-climbing routes.
Section A: COCAINE
Section B: LES ENFANTS DU TELE
Section C: SYMPHONIE
Section D: ICE BILLE
Section E: LA MENACE
Section F: BALLADE DE JULES ET LOULOU
Section G: CHACAL BONDISSANT
Section H: SOURCE DES SARAZINS

Escalade - Panoramique des Secteurs

Lac Besson cliffs guide (pdf)

Access

From Bourg d’Oisans, just before Alpe d’Huez, take the West entrance and go up the resort to the bottom of the Grandes Rousses gondola (DMC). Continue along, up to the Lac Besson road until the car park.
From there, a special path (indicated with signs) will lead you in 15 minutes to the bottom of the cliffs. Count 5 to 15 minutes depending on the sections you chose. You can not drive there.


Outdoor climbing with instructors

Mountain Guides: Click below for a lis of mountain guides who will supervise you for outdoor climbing.
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