The Site

Alpe d’Huez features 150 climbing routes on the cliffs of Lac Besson (2200 metres), exposed west/south-west.

These cliffs, which were first known for their ice falls form a great playground for beginning rock climbers as well as experts.
Composed of roc faces 30 metres to 120 metres high, the 150 routes of 1 to 4 lengths are located in 7 sections. The installed inox facilities offer optimal safety.

Alain ROCHE and Claude VIGIER, two high mountain guides are responsible for creating the routes, putting Alpe d’Huez on the map as a referenced climbing area.

Technical information

Climbing area

Regarding its environnement (Altitude, location and weather conditions), this site is an adventurous place and all climbers must use appropriate equipements.

Cliff equipments

Modern equipment is composed of inox bolts with a diameter of 10 and 12 centimeters and sealed pitons, anchors on 2 points and chains generally.
This cliff has been used for decades, therefore some outdated equipement may be found on the site (be careful with old pitons).
In mountain: for your safety use a helmet and stay in the line of the route during the climbing.

Climb grading

All the routes descend on top-rop or on rappel. Climb gradings are mentioned for reference only and remain to confirm.

Ropes and quickdraws

For pitch routes, a 70 metres rope is enough, however a 80 metres rope can be necessary on "La Menace". 12 quickdraws are enough except for the left section of "La Menace", on which you might need 15 quickdraws. For routes of more than 1 pitch, a 100 metres rope is necessary for abseiling. Names of the sections are written on the base of the cliff, as well as numbers (from left to right).

Sections

Sections are named after the ice-climbing routes.
Section A: COCAINE
Section B: LES ENFANTS DU TELE
Section C: SYMPHONIE
Section D: ICE BILLE
Section E: LA MENACE
Section F: BALLADE DE JULES ET LOULOU
Section G: CHACAL BONDISSANT
Section H: SOURCE DES SARAZINS

Lac Besson cliffs guide (pdf)

Access

From Bourg d’Oisans, just before Alpe d’Huez, take the West entrance and go up the resort to the bottom of the Grandes Rousses gondola (DMC). Continue along, up to the Lac Besson road until the car park.
From there, a special path (indicated with signs) will lead you in 15 minutes to the bottom of the cliffs. Count 5 to 15 minutes depending on the sections you chose. You can not drive there.

Outdoor climbing with instructors

Mountain Guides: Click below for a lis of mountain guides who will supervise you for outdoor climbing.
More information...

What is a via ferrata ?

Via ferrata (invented by the italians in the mountains of the Dolomites) is a mountain route which is equipped with fixed cables, stemples, ladders, and bridges.

Via Ferrata Area

Alpe d’Huez offers the Gorges de Sarennes Via Ferrata. 2 routes startsfrom the bottom of the Chalvet lift and arrive 200 metres higher on the road of the Sarenne pass.
The first route, beginners level, can be done in a 2 hrs lapse of time. The second route is more difficult but can also be done in a 2 hrs lapse of time. You can alsoenter or exit in the middle.

Features

Vertical Drop: 200 metres
Via Ferrata: 165 metres
Difficulty Route "Découverte": PD (small difficulty) 2hrs
Difficulty Route "Sportive": D+ (difficult+) 2hrs

VIA FERRATA "La Découverte"

"La Découverte" is a fairly easy route adapted for beginner adults and children, providing some aerial passages where one can learn to maneuver the gaps and voids. Climb along a grassy ledge ascending easily to the first rock face. Continue along the ledge from right to left joining with a handrail that continues to ascend diagonally to the left, arriving on a small ledge where the route intersects with the more advanced route, “La Sportive”.
Continue to the left along a small slightly downward trail which joins a beautiful vertical rock wall of about a dozen metres. There is an exit trail available to the left, for those who wish to end the climb at this point.
The climb continues with a small overhang to the right followed by some manageable rock faces. You will then arrive at a beautiful grassy platform permitting a rest before attacking a small wall 5 to 6 metres, well equipped with stepping rails, making it possible to reach the next section of rock face along a level rock platform.
The climb ends with the ascent of a small dihedron and some final easy rock faces ending the Via Ferratta at 1810 metres.

VIA FERRATA "La Sportive"

Starting from the common departure point for both routes, “La Sportive” is well deserving of its name. It is a very direct, aerial, route that begins with a steep yet manageable wall and continues along an oblique ledge to the right well equipped with handrails.
Near 1670 metres, a steep vertical wall of about 15 metres leads to a small level stretch of rock providing a good place to rest before a breathtaking aerial traverse to the left. Another rock face is found near 1700 metres at the intersection with "La Découverte". From here you find yourself at the base of the intimidating “La Sportive” looking at up impressive vertical rock face.
After a few meters you arrive at a key passage in the Via Ferrata which requires climbing to the left at an oblique angle. Keep a good distance between yourself and the rock. Handrails facilitate this rather athletic passage along the rock face. After this challenge you come to easier traverses and climbing on grassy ledges.
Around 1755 metres, you can again rest on a beautiful platform and enjoy the view. A final wall ascends gently to the right along the more or less grassy mountainside. Foot holds cut into the rock facilitates the final section finishing at 1810 metres.

Equipment

Never climb Via Ferrata without your equipment: helmet, climbing harness, shock absorber, ropes and carabiners.
For beginners: do not hesitate to use the rope for your safety.

Access

IGN map at 1/100 000 n°54
Access by road
Grenoble-Gap-Grenoble N85, Vizille N91, Bourg d’Oisans D211, Alpe d’Huez by the Est entrance.
Follow the Altiport direction and continue on the Sarenne path road. Stop at the Pierre Ronde parking close to Via Ferrata sign. Hike down the footpath at the right of the wooden pillar. The beginning is situated close to the Chalvet chairlift.

Access by foot
Departure from Huez village, follow the Sarenne gorges footpath (45 minutes) as far as the Chalvet chairlift.

Outdoor climbing with instructors

Mountain Guides: Click below for a list of mountain guides who will supervise you for Via Ferrata climbing.
More information...